Choose a controller for size of your prop, matched needs and one that can grow as you have time to enhance the prop
Pneumatics Hookup Guide (Manual Style)
Instruction Sheet: How to connect your Pneumatic valves to a controller, quick Overview
Overview
This guide explains the basic parts and setup for a simple pneumatic prop mechanism, using a ready-to-assemble kit
(like the type sold by Hallucination Creations). The goal is to help you understand how air, valves, and fittings work
together so you can safely control motion speed and prevent props from slamming or breaking.
1) What You Are Building
A mechanism kit (hinges/mounts/motion hardware) that you mount to a board and build your prop on top of.
A pneumatic system that supplies air to move the mechanism and return it smoothly.
Speed control so the prop does not move too fast and damage itself or hit someone.
2) Parts You Need
Air source: air compressor (shop compressor or dedicated haunt compressor)
Air line: pneumatic tubing (buy 50-100 ft so you can route lines cleanly)
Quick connect fitting: compressor-style connector to feed air into the prop
Solenoid valve (double-acting in this example)
Power supply: provides the valve voltage (often the same voltage a controller outputs)
Speed controllers / flow controls: adjustable brass fittings that control air in/out
Silencers (optional but recommended): reduce the loud air "pop" exhaust noise
Pressure regulator (highly recommended): lowers pressure per prop
3) Safety Notes (Read First)
Fast props can hurt people. Over-speed motion can strike someone or damage the prop.
Too much pressure can break wood props. Keep pressure as low as needed for reliable motion.
Always test slowly first with reduced pressure and tighter flow controls, then increase gradually.
4) Understanding the Valve (Double-Acting Example)
This setup uses a double-acting valve, meaning it can force the actuator/prop in both directions:
push out and push back. In the example described, the valve has two wires and behaves like this:
Power ON sends air to one side (drives motion one direction).
Power OFF shifts air to the other side (drives motion back the other direction).
The prop can remain held in position because the valve maintains pressure as designed.
5) Connecting the Air Lines (Push-to-Connect Fittings)
Most pneumatic fittings are "push-to-connect" and are extremely simple:
Cut your tubing cleanly (square cut is best).
To insert the tube: push the tube straight into the fitting until it seats firmly.
To remove the tube: press down the plastic ring/flange on the fitting, then pull the tube out.
6) Supplying Air to the Prop
Connect your compressor hose to a quick connect fitting (like standard air compressor hardware).
Route that air input into your prop's pneumatic tubing.
Feed the tubing into the valve's air input port (as labeled on your valve).
7) Wiring the Valve Power
Your valve will receive power from either:
A standalone power supply (direct wiring), or
A prop controller output (many controllers output the same voltage needed by the valve).
Confirm the required valve voltage (commonly 12V DC).
Connect the valve wires to the power supply or controller output terminals.
Test the valve action by applying and removing power (listen/observe the valve shift).
8) Controlling Speed (Prevents Props From Slamming)
To control how fast the prop moves, use flow control fittings (speed controllers). These regulate
how quickly air can enter or exhaust the system.
8.1 Flow Controls / Speed Controllers
These fittings restrict airflow. Tighter = slower. Looser = faster.
They often have two parts:
Center adjustment: sets restriction amount (speed)
Outer ring: locks the setting in place
They control how much air can escape/enter through the valve venting.
8.2 Silencers (Noise Control)
Silencers reduce the loud air exhaust "pop."
Removing silencers can increase noise and may allow faster exhaust in some setups.
Use silencers when you want smoother, quieter motion (example: rising head, slow threatening movement).
Remove silencers only if you intentionally want aggressive, loud, fast motion (example: jerking zombie effect).
8.3 Tuning Tips
Start with the flow controls more closed (slower).
Test the prop motion.
Open the flow controls slightly until the movement speed feels correct.
Adjust each direction independently if your setup allows:
Up slow, down fast
Up fast, down slow
Both directions smooth and quiet
9) Regulating Air Pressure (Highly Recommended)
Even if your compressor runs high pressure (example: 100 PSI), your prop usually needs far less. Use a
pressure regulator to reduce pressure per prop.
Install a regulator in-line between the main air supply and the prop valve.
Set the regulator so only the pressure needed for reliable motion reaches the prop (example: 30 PSI).
Lower pressure reduces:
Risk of broken wood props
Violent motion
Wear and tear on hinges and mounts
A simple adjustable regulator is commonly available at hardware stores or Harbor Freight.
10) Final Checklist
Air line connected securely and seated fully in push fittings
Compressor quick connect properly feeding the prop air line
Valve wired to correct voltage supply/controller output
Flow controls installed and set conservatively (slow) for first tests
Silencers installed if you want quieter motion
Pressure regulator installed and adjusted to safe working pressure
Test multiple cycles and verify the prop does not slam, bind, or overextend
Result
With the valve wired, air supplied, speed controls tuned, and pressure regulated, you will have a pneumatic prop
that moves reliably, safely, and at the speed you choose.
