Picking a prop Controller

Instruction Sheet: How to Choose a Prop Controller

Purpose

Use this guide to select a prop controller that matches your haunt prop goals (simple trigger + effects, air cylinder motion, lights, sound, etc.) without buying the wrong type of controller.

1) What a Prop Controller Does

• Waits for a trigger (input) like a motion sensor or foot pad
• Runs an action sequence (outputs) such as lights, pneumatic motion, relays, motors, and audio (if supported)

2) Know the Key Specs Before You Buy

Inputs = How the prop gets triggered

• Inputs are the number of ways you can start the prop.
• Most props only need 1 input (motion sensor or foot switch).
• Most inputs are simply a switch closure: connecting two wires.

Common triggers:

• Motion sensor
• Foot pad (simple switch type)
• Any device that closes a circuit (connects two wires)

Outputs = What the controller activates

• Outputs are what the controller turns on/off after it is triggered.
• A common small controller has 4 outputs, which is plenty for most props.

Typical output uses:

• Pneumatic air valve(s)
• LEDs / low-voltage lights
• Relays (to control higher voltage devices)
• Motors (via proper switching hardware)

3) Power Requirements (Critical)

• Many controllers are not self-powered.
• You may need your own power supply (commonly 12V DC).
• Controller outputs are typically low voltage (about 5V-12V).

Before buying:

• Confirm what voltage the controller requires
• Confirm what voltage the outputs provide
• Size your power supply for what you are driving (lights, valves, etc.)

4) Audio Features: What to Look For (and What to Avoid)

Recommended audio features

• Ambient audio (background sound)
• Triggered audio (sound that plays when activated)
• Easy audio loading: prefer removable media (memory card) or modern file transfer

Avoid old-style audio recording

• Avoid controllers that require an audio cable + record button + playing audio from a computer in real time.
• If it requires “recording” audio like its the 1980s, skip it.

Speaker output notes

• Some controllers have an internal amplifier and can power speakers directly.
• Others require powered speakers.
• Avoid cheap horn speakers if sound quality matters (weatherproof but harsh/poor sound).

5) Low Voltage vs 110V Devices (Relays)

Low-voltage devices (simpler)

• LEDs and many low-voltage accessories can sometimes connect directly to outputs (check controller ratings).

High-voltage devices (110V) need a relay

If you want to control a 110V fan, a large 110V light, or any plug-in device, you must use a relay unless the controller has relays built in.

External relay basics

• Controller output energizes the relay coil (low voltage).
• Relay switches the higher voltage device on/off.

Preferred relay type: NO/NC

• Buy relays that support NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed).
• This lets you run an ambient effect when idle, switch effects when triggered, then return to idle.

6) Pneumatic Air Control (Very Common Output)

Single-acting pneumatic setup (1 output)

• Valve opens, sends air, cylinder extends
• Cylinder returns by gravity (or spring)
• Uses one output (simpler)

Double-acting pneumatic setup (often 2 outputs)

• Air pushes the cylinder out and forces it back
• Often needs two valve actions, meaning more wiring and more outputs
• Useful when you need controlled return motion (not gravity-based)

7) Controller Types Compared

Type A: Simple audio + multi-output controllers (recommended for most props)

• Easy mounting
• Screw terminals (easy wiring)
• Removable media for audio (memory card)
• Simple programming buttons
• 1+ input and 4 outputs is a great baseline

Best for: Most home haunt props (air cylinders + audio + lighting effects)

Type B: Controllers with built-in relays (can switch 110V directly)

• May list relay outputs and Normally Open / Normally Closed
• Can control 110V loads directly at the controller output (follow proper electrical safety)
• Less external relay wiring

Tradeoff: Older models may have limited or unchangeable audio.

Type C: Advanced / maker-style controllers (more technical, more flexible)

• Often exposed boards or 3D printed enclosures
• Can do more complex effects and integrate better with computer programming
• May need a protective enclosure for real-world use

8) Motion Sensor Selection (Important Detail)

• Many motion sensors trigger too far away (10-50 ft), causing early triggers.
• Look for adjustable short-range sensors that can go down to 1-5 ft.
• Short range means it triggers when someone is close and investigating.

9) Foot Pads (Buy the Right Kind)

• Avoid foot pads that work like microphones (piezoelectric types from some Halloween store props).
• Use a simple switch foot pad: press closes the circuit, release opens it.
• Most controller inputs expect a simple two-wire switch closure.

10) Warning About Over-Complex Props

• Props with many outputs (jaw, eyes, multiple cylinders, multiple motors) can be frustrating to program on button-only controllers.
• You may spend a lot of time recording sequences manually and tweaking timing.
• For complex props, consider controllers/software that allow computer timelines and precise output timing.

Quick Buying Checklist

• Inputs needed (often 1): motion sensor or foot switch
• Outputs needed (4 is a great baseline)
• Power supply required? (often 12V DC)
• Audio needed? If yes: ambient + triggered audio + easy file loading
• Controlling 110V devices? If yes: built-in relays or external relays (NO/NC preferred)
• Pneumatics: single-acting (1 output) or double-acting (often 2 outputs)
• Motion sensor range: adjustable to avoid early triggers
• Triggers should be simple switch closures (not microphone-style pads)